Mivec Owners Group

Hey all,
I recently got my hands on a 4g92 mivec that needed a headgasket re-done.
The headgasket is in, but I'm getting really bad engine noise and I was needed a bit of advice
The car starts fine, the idle is stable and no "Check engine" light,
the engine does move a fair bit in the engine bay( tried to show that in the video)
Wondering if anyone could give me advice just by watching the video.
Could the timing be wrong? Could it just be something simple like the camshaft timing sensor?
any advice would be appreciated
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J9naZSHQ2YM&feature=youtu.be

Also, the engine will not go over 6000rpm

Start with the sump pan- not being able to rev above 6000 rpm is usually a sign of a dented sump pan, which all too often happens when the engine is removed and placed on a bench. The pan needs to curve downward (gentle convex). A flat pan will cause oil uptake restriction.

That oil restriction in turn may cause the noise in the video if the restriction is significant enough.

Don't delay on checking the sump/removing the dent and report back.

Hi mitsu,
Thanks heaps for the response, I'll have a look tomorrow when I get time.

So I finally ended up checking the sump, it doesn't have any dents.
Haven't started it since, wondering if I should try thicker oil or double check the ecu.

Can you upload a pic of the sump pan just to be sure?

Don't stray from 10W40 for now. An oil pressure gauge would be ideal.

There is a minuscule dent in front right of the pan.
anything that small won't make his bad of a difference, right?

How are the idler and pulley conditions? I have a tiny tiny bit of surface rust on my idler and makes a similar noise but much quieter. Also things like power steering. Actually, you say you done a head gasket. What was reason for this? Overheated? And blew? If so chances are that sound is the sound of play in your water pump? Would fit the criteria. You should inspect wp and see if you notice anything

Again I'm no qualified mechanic I've just done auto course lol. But a fkd cooling system can cause head gasket to blow, and a water pump would tie in with fkd cool system. Also spins, so that could be sound of the play rubbing against the casing of pump or something

The headgasket was changed because it was leaking oil. I got the head resurfaced while it was out
The sound wasn't there before i changed everything
It just leaked oil a whole bunch.
Thanks for the replies

The usual answer is usually the same.

The problem you've got has got something to do with the last job you did on the engine.

They don't normally leak oil from the headgasket, it's normally from somewhere else.
To pull the head off, you need to pull the belt first, then the cam tray.
Putting it back together you need to check the tappet clearances which probably didn't happen from the sound of the video.
There's just so many things that could have gone wrong.
Maybe recheck valve (cam) timing first.
Check tappet clearances.
Check for stored fault codes in case you've left a plug off.
Maybe even a compression test.


It's usually the other way around, the gasket always leaks first, just that owners usually wouldn't know. From then on everything just gets worse.The seal on the pressure cap fails and the hoses pop.
The headbolts always go loose over time.....that causes the leakage. Retorquing the head often fixes it so you don't need to replace the HG.

Steve

_________________
6G72 mivec Twin TDO5 20Gs up and running.
Scrapheap special making exactly 280 horses at some unknown rpm.
Engine dyno under construction.

It's easier to fool someone than it is to convince someone that they've been fooled.

Thanks lads.
I completely forgot about the tappets,
I'll check that as soon as i get a chance.
Could this have caused damaged?
The timing has been checked over again and is correct
I also thought it was a werid spot to leak from,
I have a few photos of where exactly the sludge built up.
The compression test is hopefully happening this weekend.

A flatness or minor/miniscule dent can EASILY cause problems with oil uptake. Now it's almost impossible to have any perception of depth of the pan from that single photo from an outsider's perspective, here's an example:

viewtopic.php?f=28&t=11880&p=78178&hilit=dent#p78178

The gap between the sump pan floor and uptake from the factory is tiny. I usually run my hand along the pan (when cool) to examine dents when asked to check. If in doubt, tap it out!

I ending up fixing the tiny dents in the sump and painting it, but now....
I'm reading error codes 32,14 and 15 the MAP sensor is new so the sensor itself cannot be the issue.
The car surges while idling and stalls when you try to give it some throttle.
Any ideas?This problem cam about soon after I put the sump back on

Hi, all.
Still having an issue with this, car has been sitting for a while now.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I6b3cJ-1ICo
^ That video there is the same problem that i'm having, but any throttle given will stall the engine.
Can anyone give me any pointers what they think this could be?

Reset the computer, pull fault codes.

Maybe the ECU is faulty........they all fail over time.

Steve

_________________
6G72 mivec Twin TDO5 20Gs up and running.
Scrapheap special making exactly 280 horses at some unknown rpm.
Engine dyno under construction.

It's easier to fool someone than it is to convince someone that they've been fooled.