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PostPosted: 24 Jun 2004 13:11 
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Anybody done this? I can't find any pictures of how people have hooked up their ducting so it doesn't interfere with steering/suspension/driveshafts in a FWD car. I had ducts on my car last time I was at taupo and all was great until I took a small excursion off the track and the duct wrapped itself around a driveshaft :( So needless to say I want to try something different from last time.

Any pictures/links appreciated :)

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PostPosted: 24 Jun 2004 13:32 
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You can try google image search heres one with brake and duct.
http://images.google.co.nz/images?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&q=brake+duct

Image
http://www.go-fast.org/z28/brake_ducts.html
http://www.kormanfastbmw.com/e30m3bra.htm

EVO ducts, small picture.
http://www.powerengineering.co.uk/acatalog/mitsubishi_products_brakes.htm

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PostPosted: 24 Jun 2004 14:44 
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Man thats tidy :) but I still have a lot of problems with space...there isn't any.

I can't hook it up like that because the caliper is in the way. Best option might be to blow air at the caliper but ideally it should be blowing up the middle of the disk...stupid front wheel drive :p

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PostPosted: 24 Jun 2004 15:04 
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Yeah, there really is bugger all space. Even if you were able to mount something it would be too small or too far away to do any good.

What about trying to offset the effect of heat on the brakes by getting better rotors and pads?

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PostPosted: 24 Jun 2004 15:22 
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I actually don't get any fade with just plain old metal kings :P. Still havn't seen what they like at Pukekoe, but at Taupo I have no problems at all. None the less, addional cooling can't hurt.

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PostPosted: 24 Jun 2004 15:26 
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I looked at my fronts and their maybe room for a duct along the lower suspension arm. See stylish pic below of CA4A hatch front suspension care of CAPS.

*EDIT*dead image link *EDIT*

purple colour = caliper is about here
black = duct
red = random tie points

Supercheap has 1-1.5" alloy duct for running the carb summer/winter(from over the headers) for quite cheap. It's like a giant bendy straw and would probably tear up before it got wound around the drive shafts if you play off track again.

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MIVEC Data | Mitsi's > 96 GSR (stolen) | 97 Evo 4 (sold) | 96 Cyborg-RX (crashed) | 93 Cyborg-R (sold) | 3x Mirage 4WD (sold) | 98 MIVEC Race car (sold)


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PostPosted: 24 Jun 2004 16:11 
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Yep round the back seemed like an option to me as well, just not to sure where I'd run the hose to get it forward from there...everywhere I look there is 'parts' in the way :p

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PostPosted: 24 Jun 2004 16:48 
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Oh OK, the new ones have nothing in the way after you remove the factory air box( the washer bottle takes a bit on the other side).

You could aways look at an evo 1-3 and if they are better swap the parts out. The evo 3 has room for a oil cooler on one side so there must be a way through. I was thinking of that to get lighter suspension arms from a evo 4 and bolt them in the mirage, that could give me 5 bolt hubs too.

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PostPosted: 24 Jun 2004 18:49 
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No the bumper is not the problem. See in your diagram how your air pipe goes backwards....well how did you plan on looping it around so it ends up facing forward?

That 'bar' that extends forward in your diagram is the bit that goes underneath the engine...well at least on mine thats how its laid out.

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PostPosted: 24 Jun 2004 19:12 
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Are I see, I'm backwards, oops.

I think the sway bar mount confused me as the new shape has a clear path along the front side.
The newer model also has 4 different lower arms, including a very thin one (std, 1/10/95 RS, post 1/8/96 RS and '4G6' which i guess means there is a 4G63 2L Turbo hatch :D :D :D)

I checked but only one for the CA4A is listed, thought the evo 3 arm has the same mounts and is alot thinner and has the same style swaybar mount as the newer shape. Looks like the evo 3 suspension setup maybe something you should look into as it would drop weight as well.

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MIVEC Data | Mitsi's > 96 GSR (stolen) | 97 Evo 4 (sold) | 96 Cyborg-RX (crashed) | 93 Cyborg-R (sold) | 3x Mirage 4WD (sold) | 98 MIVEC Race car (sold)


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