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PostPosted: 13 Jul 2004 20:18 
just to note...with my 16s...i only had minor rubbing on the back when driving fast....so i had the rear gauards rolled, an no more rubbage at all

BUT! ... Quite often my wheels would catch on those annoying rear bolts for the rear bumper GRR :evil: .. sounds so incredibly bad when ever they caught...


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PostPosted: 13 Jul 2004 22:04 
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Joined: 09 Jun 2004 16:33
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TranceGrl get the offset checked like bartman said it should be 40, but as low 35-38 can fit. Last thing you want is to lower the car and have less steering and if you corner at speed the car weight pushes one side down more and can catch the tyres.

Hatches seem to need the rear guards rolled more than the coupes. But the newer hatches can crack the paint off if rolled to much, then you need to have them resprayed.

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MIVEC Data | Mitsi's > 96 GSR (stolen) | 97 Evo 4 (sold) | 96 Cyborg-RX (crashed) | 93 Cyborg-R (sold) | 3x Mirage 4WD (sold) | 98 MIVEC Race car (sold)


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PostPosted: 13 Jul 2004 22:09 
Rabbit wrote:
Hatches seem to need the rear guards rolled more than the coupes. But the newer hatches can crack the paint off if rolled to much, then you need to have them resprayed.


My paint eventually cracked whilst rolling mine, but then again, mine are fully rolled as far as you can go on the back...wasnt cheap tho, having to get them repainted.... :?


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PostPosted: 14 Jul 2004 01:32 
Have you tried getting the arches rolled? I've had 5 people in my car with the 17's on and not a bit of rubbing on the arches what so ever.


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PostPosted: 14 Jul 2004 09:04 
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Take at look at the link in my signature...there is pictures there of how to get rid of those bolts that rub when big wheels are fitted on a lowered car. As for rolling the guards, if you heat the paint CAREFULLY with a hot air gun (not to hot or it will blister), the paint doesn't crack :)

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PostPosted: 14 Jul 2004 23:01 
ooh sounds like a fine line to be treading, im quite glad im runnin little ol 15's


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