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PostPosted: 14 Aug 2013 00:12 
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Mivec Guru

Joined: 04 Jul 2005 13:25
Posts: 1198
Location: Lower Hutt
Country: NZ
It must be time for an update.
OK, so it's winter, I haven't done anything.
I haven't blown it up yet.
I've been putting thought into modding the knocklink to give an external trigger output, or better still, 2 of them .
More on that later.

I let the car sit for a couple of months cos I didn't have money to gas it up. Never mind.
When I came to fire it up.......first crank, broom.
I doesn't miss a beat.
Looks like a couple of russians will be doing the same sort of thing soon so I'd better get ready for more serious tuning and maybe dyno time.That's after the knocklink mods.

So, the ignition system is working perfectly still, got new factory plugs with the factory 1.1mm gaps, just lots more volts firing them.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QGNcQicVONg

Nobody's commented on the vid yet, I must have got everyone too frightened?

For all the ricers out there , racers too, this ignition system totally outclasses anything that's available aftermarket, makes them all obsolete.

Inductive, CDI, plasma, everything.
What's even better, it's pretty much free.
It'll never catch on, there's no money to be made.


Steve

_________________
6G72 mivec Twin TDO5 20Gs up and running.
Scrapheap special making exactly 280 horses at some unknown rpm.
Engine dyno under construction.

It's easier to fool someone than it is to convince someone that they've been fooled.


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PostPosted: 02 Sep 2013 22:44 
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Joined: 04 Jul 2005 13:25
Posts: 1198
Location: Lower Hutt
Country: NZ
Here's what the inside of a knocklink looks like.


Image


Sorry it's a bit fuzzy.There's not much to them, a bandpass filter, op amp and LED driver chip.
This one has been in the car over 10 years, been calibrated against my datalogger, so I know what sort of knock counts bring up the big LED.
I've used a M5269L chip out of a dead ECU to make 2 driver circuits. I can use it to drive 2 relays and also 2 LEDs so I know when it stops working properly. I've added capacitors as a timer to extend the on period once triggered.
That can give me one relay output for medium knock and another relay output for high knock.

The intention is to have the BOVs open with medium knock, if it spikes too quickly then the 2nd output can kill the ignition.

Here's a quick video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FXng5_84 ... e=youtu.be

If you listen carefully you can hear the relay release. The LED is supposed to come on too but had a dodgy connection. My camera batteries are dead again.
It won't trigger with my signal generator, that only outputs maybe 5V P to P as a square or sinewave at max and will only light the lower 2 LEDs corresponding to less knock input.
I did a frequency sweep on the input. The bandwidth is maybe 2.5KHz to 7.5 or more KHz,Most sensitivity is about 4 to 5KHz . The knock sensor puts out about 10V P to P in the vid and so turns on all the LEDs. That's hitting it with something heavy. As you can see , the sensor has it's own resonant frequency but that doesn't mean it can't pick up noises outside that frequency.

As far as knock detection goes, I've read pages and pages of it on the net. I'd guess most if not all of it is a load of bollocks (to be expected, same for anything to do with ,cars, engines, computers and electronics).
Think of knock as being like an exposion, which it is. It's one initial wave front with many reflections of diminishing strenth.
The cylinder will resonate at many different frequencies, that's dependant on it's dimensions, most of the energy is above audible hearing range due to the head to piston distance.That's why it's so hard to hear with your ears, particularly with engines that have small cylinders.
In fact every object has it's own resonant frequency or several frequencies. That's what hammers are for, for testing.
What you'll read on the net is that the lowest frequency ties in with bore size. True, but there's not much bore when the piston is close to the top, the combustion chamber's surface is mainly top and bottom.
When knock happens, that initial shockwave travels through the block and gives the knock sensor a shake.....the knock sensor resonates at it's own frequency, that's what the knocklink picks up.

Or to put in another slightly different way, the knock sensor waveform on the scope.....it's known as "ringing". It's about 11.6KHz, tested on the scope. As a double check you can feed a signal into it and measure the current, where it changes, it's resonant. Doing it that way you still get 11.6KHz.
Ringing originates from bells that ring when struck with a hammer.
So , detecting knock, you're not trying to listen to the "bell" inside the combustion chamber, you're trying to detect the hammer.
The knock sensor is a "bell", as is the combustion chamber.
So, whatever the frequencies are inside the combustion chamber? ......it doesn't matter in the least.
That's put another spanner in the works...lol.
OK different manufacturers use different methods?

Afterall, what's a frequency? it's waves with a time between them.Because they're reflected waves, the time depends on the distance they travel before reflection.If you add 2 waves of different frequency, you still have the frequencies of both waves but you also have the sum and difference of those frequencies. OK that's why a CD recording has a 22KHz cut off frequency but ears can only hear up to 15KHz. So, sound, that's just what your ears pick up.

Regardless, these things DO work and work very well.They just need modifying.
BTW the jaycar kitset is very similar too and very cheap.

Got to fit it back in the box now and wire it back up in the car.
Then the next little project on it.

Steve

_________________
6G72 mivec Twin TDO5 20Gs up and running.
Scrapheap special making exactly 280 horses at some unknown rpm.
Engine dyno under construction.

It's easier to fool someone than it is to convince someone that they've been fooled.


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PostPosted: 21 Sep 2013 17:31 
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Mivec Guru

Joined: 04 Jul 2005 13:25
Posts: 1198
Location: Lower Hutt
Country: NZ
I've put up 4 vids on ewe tube

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FXng5_84IIg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0BQmpaiVrtQ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qg0Lusdy_M8

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pfdChB1Nvlo

Next up is my BHG early warning detector circuit.

Image
Image

A 3 bar map sensor.......far too easy, lol.


Steve

_________________
6G72 mivec Twin TDO5 20Gs up and running.
Scrapheap special making exactly 280 horses at some unknown rpm.
Engine dyno under construction.

It's easier to fool someone than it is to convince someone that they've been fooled.


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PostPosted: 07 Oct 2013 22:26 
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Joined: 04 Jul 2005 13:25
Posts: 1198
Location: Lower Hutt
Country: NZ
I've got a slight change in plan now.

Back to the major project, my failsafes.
Opening the BOVs at full boost seems like a pretty good way to drop the power level quickly, so long as the pulse sent out is long enough.
The only downside I can see to it is that if I don't lift off, the turbos will overspeed, worst case, they'll fly apart.
That's easy fixed, all I need to do is to open the WGs at the same time, all tied in with my new boost controller.
So here's a good question......was thinking about this thurs night with a beer.......what's the lowest boost you can run?
Is it wastegate spring load? OK well my stock internal WGs were about 5 or so PSI, I'v wound them up to 9 ish. Lower would be better.
But the answer to the question is........it depends on how smart your boost controller is.
If you've got a compressed air supply you can hold the WGs open and run close to zero boost.
Why?.....cos I can. lol. Why not (shall we call it WOF mode, there's nothing worse than mechanics thrashing your car)?
Both the pajero and the 30M use a vacuum reservoir canister with a 1 way valve, it's used on the pajero for opening the butterflies on the runners, on the 30M it's used for the traction control diaphragm on the Throttle body. So, doing it backwards, reverse the valve, you pressurise it from boost, use a solenoid connected to it to open the wastegates wnen ever you want.
Or better still just swap parts around to use the factory GTO vac reservoir as a boost reservoir and use the Pajero/30M vac reservoirs for the BOVs. That'll tidy things up a bit too.
It might take me 'til Christmas to get it working . It might be tomorrow though?

Last week I put together 2 LED bargraph displays.They both started off as Jaycar battery condition monitor kitsets. They're cheap.....goes with the car.
I've modded one to display 0 to 13.8V as 10 LED steps.
I've modded to other to display 1.5 to 5v as 10 LED steps.
The first one can monitor the IDC (RC filter on the input), I can also use it to monitor the factory boost control solenoid IDC for when the Apexi is gone.
The second one will display from slight vacuum up to 30 PSI, the signal you get from a 3 bar map sensor. I can use that as an LED boost gauge or coolant pressure monitor, or even both?
I sort of need them as I'll end up tuning without the datalogger.
I don't know where anything is going to get mounted yet. I guess I'll have to remove the heater vents and mount things in there somehow. A mess will do for now.
After that I put together a nitrous controller kitset, voltage switch and frequency switch, all from jaycar. The frequency switch is to integrate with the ignition killer to work as an ignition based rev limiter, that's to kick in before the fuel cut rev limiter as an extra safety precaution.

What about the apexi boost controller I don't need anymore?
I leave it where it is and hook up the sense line to the fitting on the top rad hose and I've got a perfect pressure monitor with a digital display in bar for the cooling system. It tops out at 1.6 bar.
Every toyota should have one of those factory fitted lol.


Steve

_________________
6G72 mivec Twin TDO5 20Gs up and running.
Scrapheap special making exactly 280 horses at some unknown rpm.
Engine dyno under construction.

It's easier to fool someone than it is to convince someone that they've been fooled.


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PostPosted: 25 Dec 2013 23:43 
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Joined: 04 Jul 2005 13:25
Posts: 1198
Location: Lower Hutt
Country: NZ
I just read the last entry and it's Christmas.

I've modified the throttle linkage so that instead of the cable pulling on one throttle, that pulling on the second........the throttle cable pulls on a balance bar. one end opens the drivers side throttle via a cable, the other end of the balance bar has another cable , that goes around a pulley I made, .....got roller bearings in it.....to open the passenger side throttle. They're better balanced now and shouldn't go out of adjustment.Cruise control still works too.
The pulley with the roller bearings......I looked through the junk in the shed and found a vac pump from a GTO cruise control, it came out of there. Plus a couple of big washers, one each side.
At the same time, I've had problems with the hose fitting on the manifold, the one that goes to the brake booster, the hose kept splitting and leaking, so that's been modified too, the throttle pulley mechanism is welded to the side of that pipe fitting so I managed to do the whole job without removing the intake manifold yet again. Just the fitting.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

I'm back to the perfect idle again.

OK it's a bit hard to make it out.
Also I tidied up my wire ties on the intake pipes.

I used the Diamante vac reservoirs on the BOVs and they don't work.
They leak a bit and don't hold enough vac.
So I'll go back to how it was but I've got a spare GTO factory vac res from a wreck . I'll try to find a place to mount it and use that for the WGs.

My ignition system has had a good workout. I had to test someone else's faulty ECU in the car.
The caps had been previously changed and RTV had been used under them. RTV and circuit boards don't work together, RTV gives off acetic acid when it cures.
The dud ECU wasn't firing on 1 and 4. That particular track goes right under one of the caps.The track for the 1st coil.
So I flooded 2 cylinders with no spark and no cold start anti flood mod.
Then fitted my overclocked ECU with no cold start mod, it wouldn't start back up, flattened the bat again.
Then after I got my modded ECU back 2 weeks later , it fired up after a short crank.
It should have cleared its self though after a couple of weeks.
I hosed off the cobwebs too, lots of spiders here.
I've got to empty the garage so I can have a proper clean up, that'll get me on the go again.

Steve

_________________
6G72 mivec Twin TDO5 20Gs up and running.
Scrapheap special making exactly 280 horses at some unknown rpm.
Engine dyno under construction.

It's easier to fool someone than it is to convince someone that they've been fooled.


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PostPosted: 01 Dec 2014 22:54 
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Joined: 04 Jul 2005 13:25
Posts: 1198
Location: Lower Hutt
Country: NZ
Update time.
I put some petrol in it. A whole $20 worth.
I should take it for a drive.
I still haven't decided how and where the boost tank is going to end up......so instead of rushing into things and getting it all wrong.......I'm still thinking about it.

Steve

_________________
6G72 mivec Twin TDO5 20Gs up and running.
Scrapheap special making exactly 280 horses at some unknown rpm.
Engine dyno under construction.

It's easier to fool someone than it is to convince someone that they've been fooled.


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PostPosted: 28 Jun 2015 23:57 
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Mivec Guru

Joined: 04 Jul 2005 13:25
Posts: 1198
Location: Lower Hutt
Country: NZ
Update time.
It's still running well.
Still thinking about some mods and doing new ones.
Since last time, I've modified the modifications to the throttle linkage, mainly because a cable doesn't like to bend tightly to go around a small pulley, the pulley is a bit bigger.

I've got a spare 6G72 TT block, it's been sitting for about 10 years. It's a bit oversize so I can't use factory pistons.
I got a set of forged pistons for it, cheap, a couple of years ago.
But I don't like forged pistons, nothing but trouble and they're not needed if it's tuned right.
At the same time I've got some other spares doing nothing .......like a crank from a Pajero 3.5GDI that's been reground to .075mm and some (low compression) pistons from a 3.5 SOHC Diamante.

I've cut down the counterweights of the crank so I can use factory 6G72 rods. The bigends need to go down from 55mm to 50mm. The main bearings need to go from 64mm to 60mm.
Then with a bit of clearancing on the block.....the crank will fit and go around, the rods will clear the block, destroking it 2mm makes it easier , the 3.5 pistons, being a bit shorter will fit too with a bit more modification and boring the block to 93mm. The crank will need nitriding and balancing.
That will make it 3.4 litres, for minimal cost too.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AKzd-VGAQuk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7eiNxAf--1E
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e9ffbeu2odc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N1H4xvkOGI4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ufCP6JDyxQ

I've already built a bigger mivec (outside only) using a 3.5/3.8 block....doing it that way pretty much everything on the outside needs modifying to fit (which I've done) but haven't yet decided on bore and stroke.

Doing it this way using the 6G72 block, it's the insides that need major modifications while the outside stays stock and will just drop into the car.
I've also got another block , built a few years back, it's still wrapped up in plastic because I'm not happy about using the forged pistons in it. So the tricked up mivec heads that I was planning to put on the "forged" block, they'll end up on this 3.4 instead.
When this is ready, then maybe I'll put the car on the dyno and see what I can get out of the existing (3.0) engine before it blows up........lol.

Steve

_________________
6G72 mivec Twin TDO5 20Gs up and running.
Scrapheap special making exactly 280 horses at some unknown rpm.
Engine dyno under construction.

It's easier to fool someone than it is to convince someone that they've been fooled.


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PostPosted: 14 Mar 2016 14:52 
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Joined: 04 Jul 2005 13:25
Posts: 1198
Location: Lower Hutt
Country: NZ
Haven't done any updates for ages, the car still goes but the tyres are bald, when I put my foot down the wheels just spin...lol. Still quite a few little jobs to tidy up on it.
I've nearly finished my 3.3 / 3.4 stroker.....6G72 block, .........84mm stroke, 91.6 bore, 6G74 crank, 6G72 rods.
I've also started building a 4.0 (4040) which is a 6G74 block / crank, the crank is stroked from 85.8 to 91mm, the bore will be 95mm with 6G75 pistons...the crank is done.
Once that's finished (and tackled any unforseen problems), i'll be going for the jackpot........a 6G75 with the crank stroked from 90mm to 95mm and push the bore out to 97mm....just because I can.....4188cc. But...........I might be able to take the bore out to 99 mm. I've measured the bore thickness. That would make it 4.4 litres.
DOHC mivec heads on them all of course.

_________________
6G72 mivec Twin TDO5 20Gs up and running.
Scrapheap special making exactly 280 horses at some unknown rpm.
Engine dyno under construction.

It's easier to fool someone than it is to convince someone that they've been fooled.


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PostPosted: 12 Jun 2017 10:22 
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Joined: 24 Sep 2008 11:15
Posts: 175
Location: Trinidad,Caribbean
Where are the teaser pics magn1t??? :D :D :D


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PostPosted: 20 Jun 2017 22:15 
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Mivec Guru

Joined: 04 Jul 2005 13:25
Posts: 1198
Location: Lower Hutt
Country: NZ
I'm not sure where they went?
Might have been due to photobucket. The old ones that is?

I've got some new videos on ewetube?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6OCcOoAlmLg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ARYba7ZJg5Y


The car's still going OK, as in it hasn't blown up.
I'm in the middle of several jobs which have been temporarily put off to one side.
I need a new set of tyres which has held me up..........shortage of money.
They're coming soon. But it's mid winter right now so not much motivation.


I think the latest mod was a 3rd version of my twin throttle, the first 2 versions use a cable, it now uses a pushrod, far better.
I've reworked the fuel system too after spending lots and lots of time flow testing pumps, regulators and injectors at different voltages on a home built test bench.
I've used all OEM EFI hose and fittings from pick a part...........only because all of the aftermarket EFI hose is unsafe, it starts going hard and cracking after less than 2 years. Then it leaks.


I'll be doing a major rework of the water injection system next but haven't really done a lot in 6 months, since I got a new job putting this together.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NZV_0Jh3JIU

Coolest job ever........I get paid to sweep the floor.


edit, here's one from a year ago, stroked 6G74 crank with RB30 rods hanging off it.
http://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=snrnk5a5.icv.jpg
Ooops, that's the wrong pic, that's me narrowing them on the crank grinder.
http://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=utg004kn.x1i.jpg

Here's the latest twin throttle setup, I've changed the passenger side throttle body to a pajero one, it's a mirror image of the GTO part
http://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=g1vx0av3.e0i.jpg

This one here, I've got a non mivec 6G74 dummied up with spacer plates under the heads. That makes the heads further apart so I've also made spacer plates between the lower intake manifold and intake ports. I can swap all this over to the other block with the mivec heads at a later date.

http://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=2vr0xbw3.4ng.jpg


If you look closely you can see that I've reworked the tensioner setup for the cambelt and to degree the cams have had to offset the holes in the cam gears.


Total cost so far......just a bit more than zero.





I thought nobody was interested?

_________________
6G72 mivec Twin TDO5 20Gs up and running.
Scrapheap special making exactly 280 horses at some unknown rpm.
Engine dyno under construction.

It's easier to fool someone than it is to convince someone that they've been fooled.


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 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 26 Jun 2017 22:52 
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Mivec Guru

Joined: 04 Jul 2005 13:25
Posts: 1198
Location: Lower Hutt
Country: NZ
I've just picked up an MD362895 which cross references to an ECU out of a late model Galant VR4, the 6A13V6 TT model.
It was someone else's unfinished project and as such it comes with ready made adaptors to plug into the GTO loom as well as all the required diagrams.
I don't know how many years it'll take me to get it running on the car but it's something that's been on my wanted list for a while.
It means I can load it with chrome software and have a fully programmable ECU same as the US 98 and 99 3KGT VR4 s have.
As it is I'm still running a stock / overclocked ECU (I swap between computers) in the car with piggybacks. The mivec is controlled by the active exhaust pin via amplifier and relay.
With a stock computer , it switches at 3500 RPM. With the overclocked ECU , it switches higher up the RPM band.Maybe 4500? It's a 25% overclock.
The downside is that the datalogger won't work with the overclocked ECU.
I've just got to make sure the circuitry for the active exhaust is there and it's going to work.

The newer ECU will allow any OBD2 logger to work and also give me an extended RPM band (over an existing stock GTO ECU) which of course you need with mivec.

_________________
6G72 mivec Twin TDO5 20Gs up and running.
Scrapheap special making exactly 280 horses at some unknown rpm.
Engine dyno under construction.

It's easier to fool someone than it is to convince someone that they've been fooled.


Top
 Profile  
 
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